Monday 14 January 2008
The Top Five Photo Mistakes And How To Fix Them
Lackluster Composition
Sometimes just a subtle shift of emphasis is all it takes to turn a throwaway digital photograph into a treasured keeper. Here are the top tips to immediately improving your composition.
* Tip 1: The Rule of Thirds
The "Rule of Thirds" is a time-honored technique professional photographers use to improve composition. Imagine a tic-tac-toe grid over the image you want to take. Use the intersection of those lines to place your subject slightly off center, and bring interest up or down.
* Tip 2: Variety
Take photos at various angles and distances to give you more options to choose from. Also experiment with vertical and horizontal camera orientation -- you may discover that this simple shift yields interesting results.
* Tip 3: Reduce the Background
Eliminate distracting background clutter by getting closer to your subject. Or try using your camera's Portrait pre-set mode. This will keep objects close to you in focus, while blurring the background. You can achieve the same effect, known as a shallow depth of field, by manually adjusting your aperture setting to a low f-number, such as f2.8.
Poor Lighting
Digital photography is all about catching that magic moment when the light is just right. But lighting also provides some challenges. These tips will help, whether you're indoors or out.
* Tip 1: Balance Bight or Dim Light
Digital cameras get "confused" by unbalanced conditions, such as a very bright or dim light, causing the camera to under or over expose your photo.
In low light conditions, try using your camera's night shooting mode, or lower the ISO to 50 or 100 to get rich detail in low light. Use a tripod, or steady yourself against a stable object to avoid moving the camera.
In bright light, try your camera's Beach or Sunshine mode, or manually choose a fast shutter speed to control the amount of light that comes in.
* Tip 2: Shooting Indoors
Avoid using your flash. Instead, provide as much natural light as possible -- open curtains, or even the door. Or use lamps to add light to the scene. Your flash mutes color and casts stark, deep shadows that are especially unflattering in portraits.
Don't place your subject in front of a bright window or they will become a silhouette (although this can be a nice effect when done intentionally). Try placing them off to the side instead, or facing a natural light source.
* Tip 3: Shooting Outdoors
Try to have the sun behind you when you shoot. This will provide the most flattering light to your subject.
Shoot early or later in the day -- dawn and dusk provide lovely light, whereas midday light can be harsh.
Take advantage of overcast days for photography. That's when the light is even, and casts almost no shadows.
Red-Eye
The appearance of glowing red eyes can ruin a portrait of even the cutest child or pet. The red color comes from light reflecting off of the retinas in our eyes. The following quick tips can help get the red out.
* Tip 1: No Flash:
Try not to use a flash if possible -- it is the number one cause of red-eye. Instead, turn on lights or open curtains to add additional light to your scene.
* Tip 2: Look Away From The Light:
Ask your subject to look toward the camera but not directly at the lens or to look into a bright light first.
* Tip 3: Use The Red-Eye Reduction Setting: Take advantage of in-camera red-eye removal. Many digital cameras and photo printers now allow you to remove red-eye or prevent it altogether. Check your digital camera's manual to see if it includes these features.
Blurry Photos
While a photo with a dramatic blur can often be artistic, it can also render a subject incomprehensible. Here are some ways to add clarity to your digital photographs.
* Tip 1: Reduce Shutter Lag
The time between pressing the trigger and the camera taking the picture is called shutter lag, and it can cause blurry pictures. Avoid it by pressing the trigger halfway down until you're ready to shoot. When the right moment comes, press the rest of the way. This strategy is great when you're taking pictures of people (especially kids) or animals. ?
* Tip 2: Minimize Camera Shake
Even the slightest camera movement can cause unclear photos. Use a tripod or brace yourself against a stationary object to hold the camera still. Some digital cameras come with image stabilization, another way to get clear images of moving subjects.
* Tip 3: Use "Action" Mode
Use your digital camera's "Action" shooting mode for sports or other action shots. It automatically optimizes your shutter speed to help capture motion. Or manually increase your camera's shutter speed to achieve the same effect.
Low-Quality Prints
If you plan to print your photographs using a digital photo printer, keep resolution in mind. Resolution is measured in megapixels (MP), and matching the resolution to the print size will help you get clear digital photo prints.
* Tip 1: Use High Resolution
If you plan to enlarge or crop photos before printing, it's best to shoot at the highest resolution possible. But high-resolution pictures take up more memory.
* Tip 2: Low-Res for Email
If you plan to e-mail images or print smaller sizes, like 4" x 6" or 5" x 7" photos, you can stick to 4-5 MP with no problems.
* Tip 3:
Many digital cameras let you select the resolution level, so you can determine ahead of time whether you want to shoot a big file with lots of detail, or a quick snapshot you can post to a website or e-mail to friends and family.
Sometimes just a subtle shift of emphasis is all it takes to turn a throwaway digital photograph into a treasured keeper. Here are the top tips to immediately improving your composition.
* Tip 1: The Rule of Thirds
The "Rule of Thirds" is a time-honored technique professional photographers use to improve composition. Imagine a tic-tac-toe grid over the image you want to take. Use the intersection of those lines to place your subject slightly off center, and bring interest up or down.
* Tip 2: Variety
Take photos at various angles and distances to give you more options to choose from. Also experiment with vertical and horizontal camera orientation -- you may discover that this simple shift yields interesting results.
* Tip 3: Reduce the Background
Eliminate distracting background clutter by getting closer to your subject. Or try using your camera's Portrait pre-set mode. This will keep objects close to you in focus, while blurring the background. You can achieve the same effect, known as a shallow depth of field, by manually adjusting your aperture setting to a low f-number, such as f2.8.
Poor Lighting
Digital photography is all about catching that magic moment when the light is just right. But lighting also provides some challenges. These tips will help, whether you're indoors or out.
* Tip 1: Balance Bight or Dim Light
Digital cameras get "confused" by unbalanced conditions, such as a very bright or dim light, causing the camera to under or over expose your photo.
In low light conditions, try using your camera's night shooting mode, or lower the ISO to 50 or 100 to get rich detail in low light. Use a tripod, or steady yourself against a stable object to avoid moving the camera.
In bright light, try your camera's Beach or Sunshine mode, or manually choose a fast shutter speed to control the amount of light that comes in.
* Tip 2: Shooting Indoors
Avoid using your flash. Instead, provide as much natural light as possible -- open curtains, or even the door. Or use lamps to add light to the scene. Your flash mutes color and casts stark, deep shadows that are especially unflattering in portraits.
Don't place your subject in front of a bright window or they will become a silhouette (although this can be a nice effect when done intentionally). Try placing them off to the side instead, or facing a natural light source.
* Tip 3: Shooting Outdoors
Try to have the sun behind you when you shoot. This will provide the most flattering light to your subject.
Shoot early or later in the day -- dawn and dusk provide lovely light, whereas midday light can be harsh.
Take advantage of overcast days for photography. That's when the light is even, and casts almost no shadows.
Red-Eye
The appearance of glowing red eyes can ruin a portrait of even the cutest child or pet. The red color comes from light reflecting off of the retinas in our eyes. The following quick tips can help get the red out.
* Tip 1: No Flash:
Try not to use a flash if possible -- it is the number one cause of red-eye. Instead, turn on lights or open curtains to add additional light to your scene.
* Tip 2: Look Away From The Light:
Ask your subject to look toward the camera but not directly at the lens or to look into a bright light first.
* Tip 3: Use The Red-Eye Reduction Setting: Take advantage of in-camera red-eye removal. Many digital cameras and photo printers now allow you to remove red-eye or prevent it altogether. Check your digital camera's manual to see if it includes these features.
Blurry Photos
While a photo with a dramatic blur can often be artistic, it can also render a subject incomprehensible. Here are some ways to add clarity to your digital photographs.
* Tip 1: Reduce Shutter Lag
The time between pressing the trigger and the camera taking the picture is called shutter lag, and it can cause blurry pictures. Avoid it by pressing the trigger halfway down until you're ready to shoot. When the right moment comes, press the rest of the way. This strategy is great when you're taking pictures of people (especially kids) or animals. ?
* Tip 2: Minimize Camera Shake
Even the slightest camera movement can cause unclear photos. Use a tripod or brace yourself against a stationary object to hold the camera still. Some digital cameras come with image stabilization, another way to get clear images of moving subjects.
* Tip 3: Use "Action" Mode
Use your digital camera's "Action" shooting mode for sports or other action shots. It automatically optimizes your shutter speed to help capture motion. Or manually increase your camera's shutter speed to achieve the same effect.
Low-Quality Prints
If you plan to print your photographs using a digital photo printer, keep resolution in mind. Resolution is measured in megapixels (MP), and matching the resolution to the print size will help you get clear digital photo prints.
* Tip 1: Use High Resolution
If you plan to enlarge or crop photos before printing, it's best to shoot at the highest resolution possible. But high-resolution pictures take up more memory.
* Tip 2: Low-Res for Email
If you plan to e-mail images or print smaller sizes, like 4" x 6" or 5" x 7" photos, you can stick to 4-5 MP with no problems.
* Tip 3:
Many digital cameras let you select the resolution level, so you can determine ahead of time whether you want to shoot a big file with lots of detail, or a quick snapshot you can post to a website or e-mail to friends and family.
Getting Great Photo Prints From Your Digital Camera
The first step to getting great digital photo prints is to make sure you use a good quality digital camera.
Digital photos are gaining popularity over traditional film photos because of the features and convenience associated with the newer technology. In some cases it's even more cost effective to print your own photos at home instead of taking them to a developer or sending them in.
Here are some words of wisdom for making great digital photo prints at home.
There are really 4 key components to a great printed photo: Image, Printer, Ink, Paper. Each is part interrelated therefore equally important for success.
The image is the starting point for a good photo. There are many different camera models out there, but in general, you will need at least 3.2 megapixel picture taking ability. Some snazzy digital SLR cameras have 8 megapixels or more. The camera should always be set to the highest resolution while taking the shots just in case you want to make enlargements later on.
Image transfer is crucial! Do not just throw the highest pixel image at some paper, you may not be happy with the results.
Sometimes, too high of a pixel count will create unsightly jagged color transitions in your photo and waste a lot of your ink and time. Too few pixels and the photos will turn out very "grainy". It's usually best to stay within the 200-300 pixels per inch range.
For example, if you had a picture taken with a 1.5 megapixel digital camera, a 5x7 inch print is probably the largest size print that would work. Anything larger than a 5x7, may not look good.
However, if you had a picture taken with a 14 megapixel camera, you should be able to print out a 11x14 inch print with excellent results (300ppi), or a "good" looking 16x20 inch print at 200 ppi.
In addition to the digital camera image, there are a few other components that go into making good quality digital photos you'll want to be aware of: Your printer, the ink cartridges you use, and the quality of the photo paper you use. Each component factors into your end result.
Digital photos are gaining popularity over traditional film photos because of the features and convenience associated with the newer technology. In some cases it's even more cost effective to print your own photos at home instead of taking them to a developer or sending them in.
Here are some words of wisdom for making great digital photo prints at home.
There are really 4 key components to a great printed photo: Image, Printer, Ink, Paper. Each is part interrelated therefore equally important for success.
The image is the starting point for a good photo. There are many different camera models out there, but in general, you will need at least 3.2 megapixel picture taking ability. Some snazzy digital SLR cameras have 8 megapixels or more. The camera should always be set to the highest resolution while taking the shots just in case you want to make enlargements later on.
Image transfer is crucial! Do not just throw the highest pixel image at some paper, you may not be happy with the results.
Sometimes, too high of a pixel count will create unsightly jagged color transitions in your photo and waste a lot of your ink and time. Too few pixels and the photos will turn out very "grainy". It's usually best to stay within the 200-300 pixels per inch range.
For example, if you had a picture taken with a 1.5 megapixel digital camera, a 5x7 inch print is probably the largest size print that would work. Anything larger than a 5x7, may not look good.
However, if you had a picture taken with a 14 megapixel camera, you should be able to print out a 11x14 inch print with excellent results (300ppi), or a "good" looking 16x20 inch print at 200 ppi.
In addition to the digital camera image, there are a few other components that go into making good quality digital photos you'll want to be aware of: Your printer, the ink cartridges you use, and the quality of the photo paper you use. Each component factors into your end result.
What Camera Should I Buy?
I'd recommend one that you understand. Most any camera will take a good picture -- it's controlling the camera that is the problem.
There are so many features these days that the controls can be overwhelming and put you off taking photos. So visit a camera store, play with different models, and see which ones feel right and easy to understand.
Introduction
Fundamentally, all cameras are the same and, given the same settings, a cheap camera will take the same photograph as an expensive camera. The extra money gets you improved image quality and more control over how the picture will look.
A camera is a box with a hole in it. You can make one -- called a "pinhole camera" -- using a shoe box with a window of transparent paper on one side and a small hole in the opposite side. Adding more controls, mainly to do with the lens, produces different types of cameras.
Types
Disposable Camera. These one-time use cameras are easy to carry and take surprisingly good shots. They are great for people shots at parties. You can even get "underwater" cameras, for scuba diving or at a sandy beach.
Compact "Point-and-Shoot" Camera. Perfect for snapshots. I use one for most of my personal shots and a few professional shots. I like a small, pocket-sized camera with a flash (for people's faces), a self-timer (to include myself in the shot), a wide-angle lens (28mm-equivalent for impact), and a panoramic mode (looks cool!). Most people seem to like a big, zoom lens, but I don't as I prefer "wide" shots over "tight" shots, and a bigger lens increases the size and weight of the camera.
SLR. This is the choice of semi-pro and professional travel photographers. The Single Lens Reflex feature -- which allows the viewfinder to look through the main lens instead of its own fixed lens -- allows you to remove and replace the lens. Interchangeable lenses give you more creative control of your shot. You can make a super-wide shot with a 'short' lens, or enlarge a very distant object with a 'long' lens. My favorite lens sizes are 28, 35, 50, 135, and 300mm. You can also control the aperture (the size of the hole) which allows you to decide what is, and what is not, in focus. The downside to the SLR is that you now have more equipment to buy and carry.
Medium- and Large-Format. These are big film cameras -- their size allows you to use larger film, producing a higher quality/resolution image. The equipment is large and heavy and, therefore, inconvenient for basic travel purposes.
Look for a camera with the simplest layout of the features you need and, as with the stock market, only invest in what you understand.
Cameras
Below are my two favorites for each category of digital camera:
There are so many features these days that the controls can be overwhelming and put you off taking photos. So visit a camera store, play with different models, and see which ones feel right and easy to understand.
Introduction
Fundamentally, all cameras are the same and, given the same settings, a cheap camera will take the same photograph as an expensive camera. The extra money gets you improved image quality and more control over how the picture will look.
A camera is a box with a hole in it. You can make one -- called a "pinhole camera" -- using a shoe box with a window of transparent paper on one side and a small hole in the opposite side. Adding more controls, mainly to do with the lens, produces different types of cameras.
Types
Disposable Camera. These one-time use cameras are easy to carry and take surprisingly good shots. They are great for people shots at parties. You can even get "underwater" cameras, for scuba diving or at a sandy beach.
Compact "Point-and-Shoot" Camera. Perfect for snapshots. I use one for most of my personal shots and a few professional shots. I like a small, pocket-sized camera with a flash (for people's faces), a self-timer (to include myself in the shot), a wide-angle lens (28mm-equivalent for impact), and a panoramic mode (looks cool!). Most people seem to like a big, zoom lens, but I don't as I prefer "wide" shots over "tight" shots, and a bigger lens increases the size and weight of the camera.
SLR. This is the choice of semi-pro and professional travel photographers. The Single Lens Reflex feature -- which allows the viewfinder to look through the main lens instead of its own fixed lens -- allows you to remove and replace the lens. Interchangeable lenses give you more creative control of your shot. You can make a super-wide shot with a 'short' lens, or enlarge a very distant object with a 'long' lens. My favorite lens sizes are 28, 35, 50, 135, and 300mm. You can also control the aperture (the size of the hole) which allows you to decide what is, and what is not, in focus. The downside to the SLR is that you now have more equipment to buy and carry.
Medium- and Large-Format. These are big film cameras -- their size allows you to use larger film, producing a higher quality/resolution image. The equipment is large and heavy and, therefore, inconvenient for basic travel purposes.
Look for a camera with the simplest layout of the features you need and, as with the stock market, only invest in what you understand.
Cameras
Below are my two favorites for each category of digital camera:
10 Tips To Better Photography
Taking a good photo isn't as hard as you may think. You don't need the most expensive camera or years of experience, just 10 simple tips.
Enjoy!
Tip 1 - Use All Your Available Space
Don't be afraid to use all the space in your photo. If you want to take a picture of something, it's ok for it to take up the whole shot with no or very little background showing. Keep distractions out of your shot
Tip 2 - Study Forms
This is a vital aspect to photography. Understanding forms in your photos. Don't see an object, she its shape and its form and find the best angle to photograph it from. Form is all around us and I highly suggest you read as many books on it as possible.
Tip 3 - Motion In Your Photos
Never have motion in your photos if you are photographing a still object. If there is something moving while you are trying to photograph a stationery object, your photo won't turn out anywhere near as well. Also never put a horizon line in the center of your frame.
Tip 4 - Learn To Use Contrasts Between Colors
Some of the best photos have shades of white, gray and black. You can take great shots with just one color on your subject, but the contrasts between colors in a shot is what makes you a great photographer.
Tip 5 - Get Closer To Your Subject
This is one of the biggest mistakes most photographers make, not getting close enough to their subject. Get up and personal and close the distance gap. You can always reshape and resize a good shot but you can't continue to blowup a distant object.
Tip 6 - Shutter Lag
Shooting action shots with digital camera's can be tricky due to shutter lags. What this means is, when you press the button to take the photo, it can take up to a second for the shutter to take a photo, by that time what you were photographing would have moved or changed somehow. This means you have to compensate for shutter lag by predicting what your subject is going to do and taking the photo just before it takes the action you want. More expensive digital cameras don't have this problem.
Tip 7 - Pan
If you are taking an action shot and your shutter speed is slow, pan with the object. Follow through with the subject, from start to finish and one of those shots will be a winner. You have more chance of getting a good shot if you take more then one photo.
Tip 8 - Continuous Shots
To pan like I suggested above you will need a camera that does continuous shots and doesn't need to stop and process after every shot.
Tip 9 - How To Take Fantastic Night Time Shots
Night time shots can be spectacular, almost magical.... if done right! If not they can look horrible. Really horrible. Without adequate lighting, even good camera's can turn out crappy photos if the photographer doesn't know what he or she is doing.
Tip 10 - Study Your Manual
If your digital camera has a special night time mode, read the manual and follow their instructions on how to use it properly.
Enjoy!
Tip 1 - Use All Your Available Space
Don't be afraid to use all the space in your photo. If you want to take a picture of something, it's ok for it to take up the whole shot with no or very little background showing. Keep distractions out of your shot
Tip 2 - Study Forms
This is a vital aspect to photography. Understanding forms in your photos. Don't see an object, she its shape and its form and find the best angle to photograph it from. Form is all around us and I highly suggest you read as many books on it as possible.
Tip 3 - Motion In Your Photos
Never have motion in your photos if you are photographing a still object. If there is something moving while you are trying to photograph a stationery object, your photo won't turn out anywhere near as well. Also never put a horizon line in the center of your frame.
Tip 4 - Learn To Use Contrasts Between Colors
Some of the best photos have shades of white, gray and black. You can take great shots with just one color on your subject, but the contrasts between colors in a shot is what makes you a great photographer.
Tip 5 - Get Closer To Your Subject
This is one of the biggest mistakes most photographers make, not getting close enough to their subject. Get up and personal and close the distance gap. You can always reshape and resize a good shot but you can't continue to blowup a distant object.
Tip 6 - Shutter Lag
Shooting action shots with digital camera's can be tricky due to shutter lags. What this means is, when you press the button to take the photo, it can take up to a second for the shutter to take a photo, by that time what you were photographing would have moved or changed somehow. This means you have to compensate for shutter lag by predicting what your subject is going to do and taking the photo just before it takes the action you want. More expensive digital cameras don't have this problem.
Tip 7 - Pan
If you are taking an action shot and your shutter speed is slow, pan with the object. Follow through with the subject, from start to finish and one of those shots will be a winner. You have more chance of getting a good shot if you take more then one photo.
Tip 8 - Continuous Shots
To pan like I suggested above you will need a camera that does continuous shots and doesn't need to stop and process after every shot.
Tip 9 - How To Take Fantastic Night Time Shots
Night time shots can be spectacular, almost magical.... if done right! If not they can look horrible. Really horrible. Without adequate lighting, even good camera's can turn out crappy photos if the photographer doesn't know what he or she is doing.
Tip 10 - Study Your Manual
If your digital camera has a special night time mode, read the manual and follow their instructions on how to use it properly.
How To Photograph Fireworks
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How To Photograph Fireworks
By Andrew Hudson
Photographs of fireworks are spectacular, colorful, and fairly easy to do once you know the tricks. For best results, you will need: an SLR camera, tripod, cable release, a long lens, and plenty of patience.
Since you don't know exactly when the fireworks will explode, and you are aiming to capture their trails, you will need to hold the camera shutter open for 2-30 seconds. Compact cameras don't usually offer this long exposure feature so you will probably need an SLR camera with a manual exposure mode often called 'Bulb' (often marked 'B').
To get sharp images, you must keep the camera perfectly still. Propping your camera on a wall, car-top or table may suffice, but nothing beats a good, solid tripod. You'll also need a cable release to activate the shutter without touching and moving the camera.
Waterfront settings are good as you can include the reflections of the fireworks in your shot. Cityscapes, landmarks, or people add context to the shot, but remember that they'll come out as silhouettes, so don't include faces or other details. High viewpoints, upwind from the smoke, are usually best. Get there early to secure your spot and select a lens (usually a telephoto) that will fill the frame with trails. Use the first burst to focus the lens (don't rely on your 'infinity' setting).
To photograph the fireworks, open the shutter, wait for some bursts, then close the shutter. That's it! Take lots of photos (which you can edit later) to get a few good shots. Try different apertures (f8 is the safest) and different zoom settings. Include only a few bursts to fill up the frame; too many will look messy. To reduce the effect of street lighting, cover the lens between bursts with your hand, a black card, or a black cap.
Looking for a truly spectacular shot? You can double-expose your film to include the full moon with the fireworks. (Only a few cameras provide a "multiple-exposure" mode).
How To Photograph Fireworks
By Andrew Hudson
Photographs of fireworks are spectacular, colorful, and fairly easy to do once you know the tricks. For best results, you will need: an SLR camera, tripod, cable release, a long lens, and plenty of patience.
Since you don't know exactly when the fireworks will explode, and you are aiming to capture their trails, you will need to hold the camera shutter open for 2-30 seconds. Compact cameras don't usually offer this long exposure feature so you will probably need an SLR camera with a manual exposure mode often called 'Bulb' (often marked 'B').
To get sharp images, you must keep the camera perfectly still. Propping your camera on a wall, car-top or table may suffice, but nothing beats a good, solid tripod. You'll also need a cable release to activate the shutter without touching and moving the camera.
Waterfront settings are good as you can include the reflections of the fireworks in your shot. Cityscapes, landmarks, or people add context to the shot, but remember that they'll come out as silhouettes, so don't include faces or other details. High viewpoints, upwind from the smoke, are usually best. Get there early to secure your spot and select a lens (usually a telephoto) that will fill the frame with trails. Use the first burst to focus the lens (don't rely on your 'infinity' setting).
To photograph the fireworks, open the shutter, wait for some bursts, then close the shutter. That's it! Take lots of photos (which you can edit later) to get a few good shots. Try different apertures (f8 is the safest) and different zoom settings. Include only a few bursts to fill up the frame; too many will look messy. To reduce the effect of street lighting, cover the lens between bursts with your hand, a black card, or a black cap.
Looking for a truly spectacular shot? You can double-expose your film to include the full moon with the fireworks. (Only a few cameras provide a "multiple-exposure" mode).
Special Effects with a Point-and-Shoot Camera
Question: What are some tricks and special effects I can try with my basic camera?
Answer: Even if you have the cheapest, most basic camera, you can still do many of the special-effects that professionals do with more expensive cameras.
Filters
You can use any filter (colored or distorted glass or plastic that camera shops sell for about $10-$20) but make sure it covers the lens and, if you have one, the exposure window (a small window near the lens) so that your pictures get exposed correctly. Red, orange and blue filters can make striking images while a soft-focus or fog filter adds a romantic touch to faces and water. You can even make you own filter with a colored plastic bag or glass.
Colored Flash
You can also use colored filters over the flash instead of the lens (professionals call these "gels"). For a Halloween party, try using a red filter over the flash to make people look even more scary!
Old World
One of my favorites effects uses a sepia filter. The light-brown color makes your pictures look old and classic.
Mirrors
Magicians use mirrors and you can too. Take a photo of yourself by pointing into a window. Or include both halves of a room by using a mirror in half of the shot.
Shoot Underwater
If you're on vacation at the beach, take an underwater shot while swimming. Place your camera in a clear plastic bag, remove most of the air, and seal well. Now you can photograph underwater! (Be careful, any water entering the bag will damage the camera).
Answer: Even if you have the cheapest, most basic camera, you can still do many of the special-effects that professionals do with more expensive cameras.
Filters
You can use any filter (colored or distorted glass or plastic that camera shops sell for about $10-$20) but make sure it covers the lens and, if you have one, the exposure window (a small window near the lens) so that your pictures get exposed correctly. Red, orange and blue filters can make striking images while a soft-focus or fog filter adds a romantic touch to faces and water. You can even make you own filter with a colored plastic bag or glass.
Colored Flash
You can also use colored filters over the flash instead of the lens (professionals call these "gels"). For a Halloween party, try using a red filter over the flash to make people look even more scary!
Old World
One of my favorites effects uses a sepia filter. The light-brown color makes your pictures look old and classic.
Mirrors
Magicians use mirrors and you can too. Take a photo of yourself by pointing into a window. Or include both halves of a room by using a mirror in half of the shot.
Shoot Underwater
If you're on vacation at the beach, take an underwater shot while swimming. Place your camera in a clear plastic bag, remove most of the air, and seal well. Now you can photograph underwater! (Be careful, any water entering the bag will damage the camera).
Photographing Memories of a Trip
Tell a Story
Always think how your prints will look when you show them to your friends and relatives. You'll be narrating a story at the time so take shots to illustrate your story. Take photos of your traveling companions before you leave home, while traveling to the airport, and when you get back. Hopefully you'll see a change in your sun tan! Photograph yourselves in front of "Welcome to..." signs to use as "chapter headings."
Take a Small Camera
Despite having a lot of large 'professional' equipment, the camera I use most often with friends is a small, "compact" camera. I have a really tiny model that I can slip easily into a pocket and carry around with me. That way, whenever something unexpected and fun happens, I'm ready to capture the moment.
Photographing People
The most useful tip for photographing people is to get closer. Try and fill the frame with just the faces. Ask your subjects to stand or sit closer together, so there's less "wasted" space in the photo. Turn the flash on, even when you're outdoors, to highlight the faces.
Understand Your Flash
I often see people trying to photograph a live show or concert. Unfortunately this is almost impossible to do with a normal camera. Most on-camera flash units are only effective for about eight to ten feet - anything further away will just appear black on the photo. Whenever you use a flash indoors, make sure that you're between two and eight feet from your subject.
Don't Forget the Fun!
Many of the fun times occur between sights. Capture these with "ordinary" shots - checking in, waiting in line, at the shops, having dinner with friends, with people you meet.
Don't Forget You!
The problem with being the photographer is that you don't appear in the photos. Stand your camera on a wall or table and use the self-timer feature, or ask someone else to take the photo. Chances are they'll have a camera too and will ask you to return the favor!
Always think how your prints will look when you show them to your friends and relatives. You'll be narrating a story at the time so take shots to illustrate your story. Take photos of your traveling companions before you leave home, while traveling to the airport, and when you get back. Hopefully you'll see a change in your sun tan! Photograph yourselves in front of "Welcome to..." signs to use as "chapter headings."
Take a Small Camera
Despite having a lot of large 'professional' equipment, the camera I use most often with friends is a small, "compact" camera. I have a really tiny model that I can slip easily into a pocket and carry around with me. That way, whenever something unexpected and fun happens, I'm ready to capture the moment.
Photographing People
The most useful tip for photographing people is to get closer. Try and fill the frame with just the faces. Ask your subjects to stand or sit closer together, so there's less "wasted" space in the photo. Turn the flash on, even when you're outdoors, to highlight the faces.
Understand Your Flash
I often see people trying to photograph a live show or concert. Unfortunately this is almost impossible to do with a normal camera. Most on-camera flash units are only effective for about eight to ten feet - anything further away will just appear black on the photo. Whenever you use a flash indoors, make sure that you're between two and eight feet from your subject.
Don't Forget the Fun!
Many of the fun times occur between sights. Capture these with "ordinary" shots - checking in, waiting in line, at the shops, having dinner with friends, with people you meet.
Don't Forget You!
The problem with being the photographer is that you don't appear in the photos. Stand your camera on a wall or table and use the self-timer feature, or ask someone else to take the photo. Chances are they'll have a camera too and will ask you to return the favor!
How Do I Compose A Photograph?
Composition is the key to an interesting photograph. Despite all the technical jargon, photography is essentially an art form, and its most important aspect is composition. To improve your art skills, find photos you like and study them, asking yourself: 'Why exactly do I like this picture?'
Subject. When you take a photograph, identify what the subject is. Answering 'a person' or 'a building' is not good enough. You need to go deeper and specify 'the curves of the body' or 'the crumbling stonework' -- something that activates your senses, that you can touch, feel, smell, or taste. This process is the most overlooked step in photography. Although it may be tempting to simply snap your photos and rush on, I urge you to take time to visually explore the subject and see what appeals to you. Ask yourself: 'What is the purpose of this photograph?' and 'What is the reaction I want a viewer to have?'
Context. Next find a 'context' -- a simple backdrop which adds relevance, contrast, and/or location to the 'subject.' You can add depth by finding a 'context' in a different spatial plane than the 'subject.' For example, if the subject is a building in the background, make the context a flower or person in the foreground.
Now combine the two in a simple way. I like to say that a good photograph is a subject, a context, and nothing else. Remove any clutter that detracts from your message. Get closer -- zoom in -- and crop as tightly as possible.
Subject Placement. The placement of your subject in the frame denotes its relevance to the context. The center of the frame is the weakest place -- it's static, dull, and gives no value to the context. The more you move the subject away from the center, the more relevance you give to the context; so juggle until you get the right balance. Each item has a 'weight' and, like a waiter filling up a tray, you need to balance the weights within the frame.
Lines and Paths. Create impact by using real or inferred lines that lead the viewer's eye into and around the picture. Railway tracks, rivers, and fences are obvious choices, but there are also inferred lines from the subject to the context. Lines have subtle effects. Horizontal lines are peaceful; diagonals are dynamic or tense; and curves are active and sensuous. You can also connect lines in a path or shape, such as a triangle.
A picture is a playground for the eyes to explore, so provide a path of movement, and some space for the eye to rest.
Subject. When you take a photograph, identify what the subject is. Answering 'a person' or 'a building' is not good enough. You need to go deeper and specify 'the curves of the body' or 'the crumbling stonework' -- something that activates your senses, that you can touch, feel, smell, or taste. This process is the most overlooked step in photography. Although it may be tempting to simply snap your photos and rush on, I urge you to take time to visually explore the subject and see what appeals to you. Ask yourself: 'What is the purpose of this photograph?' and 'What is the reaction I want a viewer to have?'
Context. Next find a 'context' -- a simple backdrop which adds relevance, contrast, and/or location to the 'subject.' You can add depth by finding a 'context' in a different spatial plane than the 'subject.' For example, if the subject is a building in the background, make the context a flower or person in the foreground.
Now combine the two in a simple way. I like to say that a good photograph is a subject, a context, and nothing else. Remove any clutter that detracts from your message. Get closer -- zoom in -- and crop as tightly as possible.
Subject Placement. The placement of your subject in the frame denotes its relevance to the context. The center of the frame is the weakest place -- it's static, dull, and gives no value to the context. The more you move the subject away from the center, the more relevance you give to the context; so juggle until you get the right balance. Each item has a 'weight' and, like a waiter filling up a tray, you need to balance the weights within the frame.
Lines and Paths. Create impact by using real or inferred lines that lead the viewer's eye into and around the picture. Railway tracks, rivers, and fences are obvious choices, but there are also inferred lines from the subject to the context. Lines have subtle effects. Horizontal lines are peaceful; diagonals are dynamic or tense; and curves are active and sensuous. You can also connect lines in a path or shape, such as a triangle.
A picture is a playground for the eyes to explore, so provide a path of movement, and some space for the eye to rest.
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